Lately, I have been asked a variety of odd questions for which I will attempt some answers. Most of you know storing bits of arcana is about the only thing I’m good at.
“What about Holland House?” “Is it Dutch?”, is the most obscure line of quizzing I’ve ever received. Holland House is a brand name on such products as grenadine syrup, maraschino cherries, and cooking wines. And no, they didn’t return my phone calls, and there is no evidence that it is a Dutch firm.
However, the original Holland House was the London home of Henry Fox, first Baron Holland who turned his place into a sort of intellectual salon entertaining Horace Walpole and George Selwyn. Fox’s grandson, the third baron, kept up the fine tradition by having Thackeray, Moore, Sheridan, Dickens and MacCauley infest the place along with top politicos. Until they tell me differently I’ll presume the brand Holland House conveys that you can entertain your closest and dearest in the style of the great hosts of the age of scandal. Wear a wig.
Isn’t California champagne just the same as French champagne? Well, yes and no. Just as Chablis is a place and appelation and not a wine, Champagne is also a place. There is no Champagne, California therefore, California produces sparking wine, not champagne, and any vintner claiming or naming otherwise should be kicked.
Now obviously fine sparkling wines are produced in California; just ask the big French champagne houses who produce there along with many American firms. Generally speaking, champagne is made of various mixtures of three grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier. Krug, the king of champagne, often uses up to 70 percent Pinot Munier in their wines. The meatier champagnes such as Bollinger and Clicot also make good use of Munier.
In California you don’t find much Munier, just Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so the blends and styles will be different. My suggestion is to taste a lot of them and find the houses whose styles you like best, and stick with those regardless of country of origin. However, if Ballatore suits your taste, stop the whole thing and go back to ripple.
“Does Spain really produce most of the olive oil found under Italian labels?” Now keep in mind I haven’t had the chance to count the stuff personally, but apparently the answer is yes. And, the Spaniards are pretty ticked off about it. You see Spain wants the credit for the great taste and Italy wants to keep the mystique of the good brands.
The funny thing is that both countries have dispatched cadres of local olive oil “information” officials to the United States to make sure New Yorkers and San Franciscans know just who to praise. Next time you are leafing through food magazines keep your eyes open for all the olive oil ads. Last May the Italian trade commission payed God knows how much money for eight full pages of ads that include recipes, solely to extol the virtues of Colativa and their hometown of Molise.
The oil to-do is serious business for both Spain and Italy, and while it won’t get to Greco-Turk levels, expect the two to duke it out for awhile. For the Italian point of view you can call 1-800-Molise-1 or write to Molisexpert c/o Italian Trade Commission, 499 Park Ave., New York, New York 10022. Feel free to use the word “Molisexpert” while writing science fiction.